He then drops all the images into StarStaX and processes them with the Gap-Filling Blending Mode. Next, Mike jumps into Adobe Lightroom and takes a look at the photos that he shot earlier in this tutorial. He then shares the settings he used for exposure as well as his intervalometer. He then talks about why that’s not the best approach with digital cameras. I often take a couple more pictures than I would based on time (= star trail length) alone, so a particular bright star can move on enough to hide behind a building or so - I don't like prominent trails that end just before a foreground element.Mike starts his tutorial discussing how people used to shoot star trails in the old days using a multiple minute-long, single exposure. The benefit of having the pictures displayed is that you have an idea of the (possible) final composition, e.g. With the Pany GH3 and GH4 I'm not aware of any difference in this regard. I remember that with the Oly EM-5 it made a difference: when shooting in the fastest setting, the camera would display the captured picture while it wouldn't do so in the slower setting. I haven't done any formal testing but I'm confident that the endresult benefits if the gaps that have to be fixed by the software are smaller.īurst mode: whichever the camera is set to, in my case that means usually the fastest possible. When shooting in burst mode, the delay and the resulting gap in the trails is much shorter. When doing 20s exposures, a delay of 1s means I lose 1/20 (or rather 1/21) of the startrails. I'm talking about the delay between two shots. Like someone else pointed out I'm not talking about the exposure time. What approximate shutter speed do you aim for and which burst mode? I believe he is talking about the interval between shots. Why do you want less than 1 second ? Shooting stars requires 20 to a max 29seconds max for these cameras or are you trying to do something different? Or do you not have an interval timer on the gh4 ? Thus, having the ability to edit and choose the number of stacked pics makes a huge difference in the outcome. ![]() Full moon nights produce very different star stax images vs milky way nights where there are tons of stars in the sky. Depends on the composition, look, and brightness of the sky. This allows for more editing ability as well as picking the number of shots for the star trail pic. I use StarStax a free software to do the staked images. I'm not sure the G9 has that ability to churn out star stacked images from a time lapse sequence. The G9 has a interval timer feature and can do in-camera time lapse putting it all together for straight out the camera time lapse. The resulting gap is barely noticeable and possible stacking issues are rather related to sharpening artefacts. This gap is reason enough for me to do my startrail photography with a cable release and the camera set to burst mode. With my GH4 the minimum interval for time lapse is 1s (don't know if it's the same for the G9 but I'd be surprised if it was different). I'd like to raise a different topic, though. Unfortunately I'm not able to answer your questions since I process my startrail pictures with the help of my PC. ![]() first question isĬan you select all files to do it in one hit rather than individually selecting each one, real pain when you have a 100ĭo we know if Panasonic will give us G9 users the new live composite the g90 has?any other way to do this other than dump all files to hdisk and use star stacker etc Guys anyway to select all files you’ve taken with time lapse on the G9, if I shoot say 100 shots of stars I have to then manually go into the the menu I can’t remember name but it lets you select each file and join them.
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